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AP- A recent survey finds 81% of Americans show love for family and friends by preparing holiday dishes, but there’s always one dish at Christmas that tests how polite your family is. Someone’s one forkful away from blessing the cook’s heart, but nobody dares to leave that recipe off the menu. It might be a wobbly mold of aspic with floating shrimp, a salad that doesn’t contain a single leaf of lettuce or a fruitcake packed with neon cherries and nuts so dense it could double as a doorstop.

It’s probably not as bad as Aunt Bethany’s crispy cat food congealed salad from “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation,” but it still gets a few side-eyes and maybe even a small gag from the kids who have to take a bite.

No one is entirely sure who started the tradition, but it stuck. Christmas wouldn’t feel complete without it. The dish may not win any awards, but it earns its place through sheer persistence. It outlasts trendy desserts, fancy sides and every attempt to modernize the holiday spread.

What makes a recipe weird

A weird Christmas recipe isn’t always outrageous. Sometimes it’s just a dish that doesn’t quite fit. It might be sweet when everything else is savory or built from ingredients that shouldn’t go together. These recipes often come from old cookbooks and church potlucks: lime Jell-O with cottage cheese, cranberry molds shaped like wreaths or even a tomato soup cake. Dishes that were once modern and exciting now sit somewhere between nostalgic and highly questionable.

In the 1950s and 1960s, home cooks embraced new products like canned fruit, instant pudding, gelatin and every version of cream-of-whatever soup. These products represented convenience and creativity. A pie made with saltine crackers or a casserole bound by condensed soup was considered inventive at the time.

Aspic, a savory gelatin made with meat stock, was once considered elegant enough for dinner parties. Cookbooks from the early 20th century featured versions with chicken, eggs, seafood and vegetables suspended in translucent layers. What once signaled sophistication now makes people cringe, yet a few families still set it out every December because it’s what they’ve always done.

“The holidays always include spaghetti in my family, but with a secret ingredient,” says Ashley Wali of Wanderlux. “We add grape jelly to the tomato sauce, and while it sounds crazy, you just get the sweetness and no fruit flavor. My cousin asked for the recipe just the other day!”

Why it stays on the menu

Some recipes are harder to get rid of than tinsel. They show up every Christmas, no matter what’s on the menu. Someone hangs the ornaments while Dad curses the tangled lights, and someone else digs through old recipe cards, trying to remember which casserole dish belongs to which story.

Michelle Price of Honest and Truly says, “We have salad for every Christmas dinner, except it’s a marshmallow salad. We call it Marguerite salad for my grandmother, who instituted the tradition, and anyone who comes to Christmas dinner who didn’t grow up with it always looks at it askance. But Christmas dinner wouldn’t be complete without this sitting on the plate next to our mashed potatoes and ham and green beans. Of course, marshmallows and pineapple and maraschino cherries pair perfectly with that!”

It’s a habit, but it’s also comforting. And it’s good for a laugh. Every family has a running joke or two, and the weird recipe gives you something to talk about between the standing rib roast and the chocolate fudge pie. There’s always one relative who takes a second helping, one who politely avoids it and one who swears it tastes better this year.

Anyone who marries into the family learns quickly that this dish is a rite of passage. You take a scoop, smile bravely and pretend it’s delicious. It’s a kind of holiday hazing everyone endures once before earning the right to roll their eyes next year like the rest of the family.

Regional quirks

Three out of four Americans prefer traditional holiday dishes. It’s no wonder a few strange ones have stuck around. Once a recipe becomes part of the family, it’s hard to cross it off the list. Every time someone suggests replacing it, another person declares, “We can’t have Christmas without that.”

In the South, there’s pear salad made from canned pear halves topped with mayonnaise, shredded cheddar and a cherry in the middle. In the Midwest, cookie salad blurs the line between dessert and side dish with pudding, whipped topping and crushed cookies. Some New England tables feature molded cranberry salad with nuts, while parts of Pennsylvania and Ohio favor ham loaf baked in a sticky, sweet glaze.

The stories that stick

Every odd Christmas recipe has a story. Some were pulled from a magazine decades ago and somehow became permanent. Others came from a church cookbook or a neighbor’s potluck dish that everyone pretended to like, and the tradition just stuck.

Most of the time, the recipe is tied to a person more than to taste. It might have been your grandmother’s creation or your dad’s yearly experiment. Before long, it’s not really about the food at all. It’s about remembering where it came from and who brought it to the table in the first place.

That’s how these dishes last. They hang on through the stories that go with them. They remind us of the people who came before and the meals that felt the same, no matter how much else changed. That small connection matters more than the recipe itself.

Keeping the weird stuff on the table

What to do when it’s your turn to host and you want to make changes to that weird family recipe? Go ahead and swap in fresh fruit or ditch the gelatin if you want, but don’t try to fancy it up too much. Half the charm is that it’s a little ridiculous, and everyone knows it. You don’t want to miss an opportunity for someone to say, “Is that Great Aunt Edith’s chicken cherry Jell-O salad?”

Set it out proudly and tell the story. Let people laugh and take pictures. Someone will take a spoonful, and someone else will ask for the recipe, even if they don’t really want it. That old recipe may never be your favorite, but it’s part of your family’s Christmas. It has survived generations of teasing and still shows up every year. That alone is reason enough to keep it.

Lucy Brewer is a professional writer and fourth-generation Southern cook who founded Southern Food and Fun. She’s passionate about preserving classic Southern recipes while creating easy, crowd-pleasing dishes for the modern home cook. Lucy currently lives in Augusta, Ga.